eldorado canyon

Colin and I headed to Eldorado Canyon yesterday with the intent of climbing around on Cadillac Crag. But we got to the mouth of the canyon and discovered, much to our surprise, that no one was on Bastille Crack 5.7, which is fairly unusual I guess since it's one of the most 'popular climbs in the country.' So, we jumped on it.

P1. A pretty nice ride. You start off climbing up a flake and then traverse over to a crack that has pretty good holds on the face for your feet. There's a couple of bolts above a tiny little ledge to belay from. The traverse gave me pause, but once I tried a couple of different handholds I got it figured out.

P2 Even though this pitch was rated a 5.6, I thought it was the hardest of the five. The chimney was too wide to really use effectively and the holds on the face weren't the greatest, but really the only option. The roof was nice though and the sloping ledge for the belay was a comfortable place to take a rest.

P3 I don't even really remember climbing this part. I do remember the ledge I had to belay from though, as it wasn't a really great place to stand.

P4 The traverse from the belay station to get over to the crack was probably the worst part about this pitch. If you fall here, you're gonna take a swing. Then the first half of this pitch is all on awkward, leaning, sloped out holds that just weren't very comfortable, but definitely not hard.

P5 This was my favorite pitch of the whole route. Colin ignored the chimney and just used the face, but I decided to have a go at the chimney and really enjoyed it.

Once again, I decided to bring a rope bag up with me, filled with our shoes, a bottle of water and the guidebook. I gotta find a better system. That thing swung around like a chimpanzee on meth and when it wasn't doing that it decided to either strangle me, or grab on to holds or wedge itself into cracks. And don't even get me started on pulling it up the chimney. Overall though, I really enjoyed the climb and can see why it's so damn popular.

By the time we got back down to the base of the climb, there were three other groups on it. Apparently we were in the right place at the right time.


Big Daddy said...

Hmm....for all the time I lived in Boulder, I never have been to El Dorado Springs.

d said...

you should get up there. it's purty. but kinda crowded...